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I'm not much of a gambler. But I'd bet your soldering skills are better than my crappy skills shown in this video. When in doubt, use less solder. It's easy to put too much solder on there. There might even be enough there that you could just re-melt it and be good. I wanted to put a little extra because I knew it might vibrate loose again and create the same problem but I could have used less than shown in the video. And remember that you can always just plug it back in and test if your re-solder worked before doing a complete re-installation.

Glad it helped and great job on getting it replaced. Thanks for sharing.

Glad it was helpful. Thanks for the feedback.

Glad the video helped. Thanks for the comment. I haven't tried a crow foot on mine but that's because my crow foots are simple open end and I would never trust them for torque plus it's a tight quarters job and they're too fat around the nuts. Some crow foot look better than others. I might be ok with torqueing the ones that look like box wrenches but then you're basically talking about what I used in the video. Thanks for the comment and good luck with the job.

You’re welcome 😊

Glad I could help. Thanks for sharing.

Glad I could help. Thanks for sharing.

The fluid in the video is a good GL4 and will work for your R53.

Glad it helped and thanks for the feedback.

Yes. The same latex and color as the wall paint.

Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for sharing.

Glad I could help and congrats on getting the old filter off. Thanks for sharing.

@@ScubaMoto well I got two options the big socket with a wrench but jack it up more or the impact wrench I’ve also heard to tap it all around to unbreak that seal . But you’re video is good

Yeah, the impact wrench kind of takes care of all the tapping and gives the torque of a cheater bar while doing the tapping. That's why it works. I'd be surprised if a good 24-inch cheater bar wouldn't do it for you or maybe a pipe slipped over your ratchet.

@@ScubaMoto I have Ramps the issue is also the clearing for a good cheater bar etc may just use a impact wrench thanks

I'm glad you found the review useful and thanks much for the great feedback.

@ScubaMoto You know, stress out trying to repair budget things in my house. Got the HOA on my butt. And got all this drama going on. And your amount of information. And it's quality without any b s really helped not add to the mountain of crap going on in my life! But all these reviews they're not blowing smoke! You have a great day pass along some good thoughts my way. I could use some!✌️

And did I mention I need to sleep?Cause I'm exhausted and I'm babbling to complete strange. I apologize.

Glad it was helpful. Thanks for sharing.

Glad it helped. It's always good to replace the T-Stat first and let the code clear since this fault code disables the temp gauge making it appear that the temp sensor is bad. Good luck with the repair. Thanks for sharing.

Yes. I just use flux core.

Glad I could help. Thanks for sharing.

I'll try to help you get it. Impact was actually my last resort but it did work after all else failed. Leverage is always the best choice to start with. But at minimum, you really do need to have that filter wrench with the cut-outs that is shown in the video. It's the only way you will be able to put the forces necessary on that factory filter housing. The filter housing wrenches are usually available at local parts counters but I've also got links in the video description that are cheap and will get the job done. If you have a couple feet of pipe that can slip over your ratchet handle to get extra leverage that usually works as good as a cheater bar (extended ratchet). I first tried a several foot long piece of pipe and it wouldn't budge. Impact works because it combines the torque of having leverage with the impact force that helps "bump" things loose. That combination is the last resort before destroying the housing for removal and installing a new one. I hope that helps. Good luck with it.

I'm glad it helped. Thanks for sharing.

They hear you. After decades of using cartridge filters like the one in this video, Toyota has gone back to traditional metal cannister spin-off filters on the corollas, Camrys and others. Thanks for sharing.

You're definitely not lazy if you're prepping and re-painting a stator cover to look like new. Good for you, I love it. When I made the video they were available OEM for under $50 so it was a no brainer for my time saved. I just checked and my link in the video description is under $80 and you might get them even cheaper. So for time value, I personally would likely still go OEM. Plus my bike is an absolute cherry and one just like it sold on BAT recently for ridiculous money so I am keeping everything pristine and stock. Thanks very much for sharing and take good care of that CBR, it's Honda gold my friend.

@@ScubaMoto Yes sir! I picked mine up in April and it is in excellent condition. It was owned by a collector who passed and his family was selling his collection. Only 10,200 miles. The side cover is the only cosmetic flaw that the bike has, and it's not even noticeable unless you're looking for it. I did have some fueling issues after I picked it up though. The dreaded fuel pressure regulator failure reared its ugly head. I'm guessing it was due to the bike sitting for so long. Had to re-sync the throttle bodies as well. Added exhaust (kept the stock can for resale value), and a PC-V and she's running like a scalded dog. I hear what you're saying about the price of these bikes going up. I feel like they're beginning to move up to RC-51 level pricing for quality bikes. It's hard to find 954's that haven't been stunted, tracked, or crashed these days.

Yes, that's the trick with these CBR liter bikes, especially the 954's and 929's; they've been stunted to death because they weigh nothing. Congrats on the amazing find and getting her back in tip top. Keep the rubber side down and enjoy.

@@ScubaMoto Thank you sir, and you as well!

The paint in the video is the same latex paint that is on the wall. Five years and still good adhesion.

@@ScubaMoto tks for sharing! Do you know if it interferes in sound quality somehow?

I'm sure there is some effect. Whether it's good or bad is a mater of opinion but I've never heard an unpainted pair since the raw materials look as bad as they do.

@@ScubaMoto Perfect! Thank you so much for your time on this! I'll plan the purchase of all pieces and try similar as you did. It's kind of hard to find everything here in Brazil, but that's why we pay for the internet, right?? :) Thank you again!

Check the temperature rating for your thermostat (T-stat). Parts counters will often sell a 160 degree T-stat for these trucks when you really need at least a 187. So, after the new T-stat install, the truck never reaches operating temp and sees it as a stuck-open T-stat and throws the fault code. It's a super common mistake made at the parts stores. Delco 131-161 is rated at 187. It will work. NAPA also has good ones. Just confirm the Temp rating of whatever T-stat you buy. It's always worth checking that AND the wiring.

Understood and agreed. Gluing the alignment strip to the glass was not worth the effort in my case either. So, what worked well for me was loosen all the nuts, then let the alignment strip drop below the base of the glass so the rubber flap lays down on the glass. You can then gently or not at all press the strip against the bottom of the glass and re-tighten the nuts. Just be sure the strip doesn't jump back on top of the base of the glass as that is what will lift the rubber flap off the windshield. Our rubber strip is still laying flat on the glass and the alignment strip is just below the edge of the glass and all is well. I hope that helps.

@@ScubaMoto Thank You for your quick reply and further advice. I will try this.

Keep in mind that many parts counters will sell a 160 degree T-stat for these trucks when you really need at least a 187. So, after the new T-stat install, the truck never reaches operating temp and sees it as a stuck-open T-stat. It's a super common mistake made at the parts stores. Delco 131-161 is rated at 187. NAPA also has good ones. Just confirm the Temp rating of whatever T-stat you buy. It's always worth checking that AND the wiring.

I'm glad the video helped. Congrats on a good repair and thanks for sharing the squirrel stash.

I'm glad you liked it, Thanks for sharing.

Factory issue. They're one of the 17x8-inch Nissan factory wheels offered for the 2002 LE model. I'm pretty sure the factory part number for this wheel is 40300-5W528.

@@ScubaMoto Thanks

Thanks, I'm glad it helped. It's not that uncommon and is likely just dried road mud gluing it in place but it could be the contact terminals are oxidized. They can get joined together (kind of welded) by the oxidation caused by the snow melt type chemicals and hopefully they aren't completely shot. The terminals can get damaged if you force it; so if you have penetrating oil, spray it heavily and check it in an hour or two. If it's not loose, spray it again generously and let it sit overnight. If you don't have penetrating oil, WD40 should work for these. Just be sure you clean off the oil before re-installation to prevent possible shorting since WD40 and penetrating oil are both conductive. I hope that helps.

If it were mine, I would pull all codes including the chassis codes. For chassis codes, you'll need a scanner advertised as able to read and clear ABS codes. It could be as simple as a wheel sensor or damaged wheel sensor wire, but the codes will likely get you started in the right direction.

Thank you for your help. When get home everything is good . I drove it to town today with no issues. Seems to act up when the wife wants to drive it.🤔

You're welcome, I'm glad it helped. Thanks for sharing.

The PVC couplers are stronger but I figured most people already have the cans on hand. Thanks for sharing.

So glad I could help and congrats on a good repair. Thanks for sharing.

Yeah, there's never a reason to remove the spring arm. There's a note in the video description on that. As long as they're installed correctly, I've never had trouble with this housing design but Toyota has gone back to traditional metal cannister filters on the corollas, Camrys and others. Thanks for sharing.

⁠@@ScubaMoto After my hissy fit in the original comment I decided to just put the impact gun (same as yours) back on and just press the trigger and wait. Finally came off. What a POS design.

Nice!

The nuts are 10mm. The threaded posts are too long to use a 1/4 drive socket and there's not enough headroom for a deep-well socket. I used a 3/8 drive socket so it could reach the nut beyond the post and it all barely fit in the tight space as shown in the video. I hope that helps.

You're welcome. Thanks for sharing.

You're welcome and congrats on a good repair. Thanks for sharing.

Glad to help. Thanks for sharing.